Not going to lie, I have the biggest soft spot for Air BnB apartments. If you want to see a location as the locals do, it's the way to go. Every time I've stayed at one of the rented homes listed in any given location, the hosts have been nothing but remarkably hospitable, and ready to offer up their favorite places to eat.
Our apartment for the second half of the trip was just a short walk from the city square, and absolutely perfect.
When you're within walking distance of so many amazing restaurants, you do the only thing any right minded human being would do: you eat. A lot. (But it's totally fine, because walking! Right?.... Yes?)
My advice is to find the tucked back, residents know, you-have-to-look-for-it type eateries. You won't regret it. The best pizza in Poland (in my humble, but well fed opinion) came from "Ti Amo Ti", which we almost missed entirely. Off the street, and down a small alley will lead you to a vibrant garden full of small tables, each with a carafe of red wine, and any number of perfectly crispy pizza combinations.
If I'm going for favorite restaurant of the whole trip however, "Pod Wawelem" is an easy winner. I ate too much here. Way too much. No regrets.
Favorite dish: Zurek soup (oh my gosh, my life will never be the same)
Favorite dinner beer: Tyskie
Pair the two of these with an after dinner lemon vodka, which tastes like fresh squeezed lemonade to be honest, and you're golden.
We also became shameless tourists, and took a river cruise.
Turns out, we missed our boat.... While we were standing right next to it.... Trying to find our boat.
But then got an entire tour to ourselves, which is easily the best outcome to being a lost fumbling American I've experienced so far!
This city was so rich with history, and the beauty of it was only enhanced by the excellent company of my travel companion. He makes every trip an adventure, from a destination wedding, to a spontaneous flight halfway across the world.
Can't wait for the next one.
-Esther